Rich Mountain Trail

Rich Mountain Loop - A Classic Smokies Hike

The Rich Mountain Loop hike is a classic day hike in the Smokies.  Starting in the breathtaking Cades Cove, this hike is on the list of newbies and experienced hikers alike.  You don't have to drive the one-way Cades Cove loop and endure the traffic, you get amazing views down into the Cove, and you hardly see many people while taking the 8.5ish mile hike.  While you have a fair amount of uphill hiking to get to Cerulean Knob, the high point, this trail makes it all worth while.  I recently took this hike with NoKey and my friend Shannon and we were treated to the solitude of hiking on a busy Easter weekend.  Here's a recap of how our adventure went. 

We met up at 9 a.m. in the parking area.  We usually start later in the day, but since it was Easter Sunday we were nervous the lot would be packed with families looking to spend their holiday together in Cades Cove.  Imagine our surprise when we were some of the very few people there this morning!  There was a chance of thunderstorms all day and rain was forecasted at 70% chances, but we only heard one rumble of thunder in the parking area and no rain ever really materialized.  We started our hike by following a muddy and eroded horse path out to the John Oliver Cabin.  While headed to the cabin, we crossed a stream and found some teaberry to sample before heading over to the old homesite.  The cabin had quite a few people visiting and running around, so we decided it was time to start our strenuous section and head up the mountain. 

The John Oliver Cabin just before heading up hill. 

The John Oliver Cabin just before heading up hill. 

From the Oliver Cabin you now begin the uphill portion of the hike.  This old roadbed is rocky due to horse travel, but maintains a steady grade all the way up.  We followed several streams and even saw a doe on the mountainside as we climbed.  NoKey pulled ahead and Shannon and I took our time hiking uphill.  We stopped halfway up at a black birch tree, where I found a stick that was fresh enough to still have some wintergreen scented oil inside.  We talked about how the settlers would look for black birch (also called sweet birch) and used the branches as a natural toothbrush.  The oils inside have a naturally antiseptic quality for keeping breath (and teeth!) clean.  We continued upward and the trail leveled a bit as we reached the trailhead.  

Hiking uphill - a woodpecker has been busy here! 

Hiking uphill - a woodpecker has been busy here! 

We had lunch with NoKey there, sharing some of my famous hiker crack cookies, and sent him down to do the 2.2 round-trip bonus miles on the side of Indian Grave Gap.  He needed to mark it off his map and Shannon and I took an extended lunch break and took a slower pace up over to the next trailhead.  While we were still headed uphill, it was much more gentle than the first part of our hike had been.  I stopped to tape blisters (really! I somehow managed to get some by wearing the wrong socks!) and we headed up to Cerulean Knob.  After reaching this high point of our trail, at 3685 feet, we started our descent of Scott Mountain.  We took in beautiful views of the Cove through the still bare trees and started seeing more flowers - spring beauties, bloodroot, cut-leaved toothwort, pussytoes, star chickweed, and rue anemone.  We were just about to reach our next trailhead and sit down to take a break and wait for NoKey when he came charging down the mountain to meet us!

Rue Anemone

Rue Anemone

We took a stretch break and an electrolytes break before we headed downhill on the steepest part of the hike.  Thankfully Crooked Arm Ridge Trail has a lot of switchbacks!  We carefully worked our way downhill crossing over a stream and seeing the long, beautiful Crooked Arm Cascades before meeting back up with the Rich Mountain Loop Trail and heading back to the car.  Shannon thanked us for hiking with her by giving us a CASE of Thin Mint cookies.  To this day, it might be the best thank you gift I've ever received! Usually I hike this trail in the winter and I'm used to being out there without there being many people.  I expected today to be packed on trail, but we only saw five other hikers on the entire loop.  It was a great way to escape the crowds and noise of the Cades Cove area. 

Crooked Arm Cascades

Crooked Arm Cascades

The Trail loop and elevation profile for Rich Mountain Loop. 

The Trail loop and elevation profile for Rich Mountain Loop. 

If you want to attempt this hike on your own follow the signs into Cades Cove.  Follow the road like you're going to drive the loop, however, make sure you stop at the large parking lot at the entrance for parking!  The trailhead is on the right side of the road just as the road narrows to a one-way drive.  You can head up either Crooked Arm Ridge Trail half a mile in or you can continue on Rich Mountain Trail.  I would say most hikers go up Rich Mountain and come down Crooked Arm Ridge.  Crooked Arm Ridge Trail is a little bit more eroded and strenuous on the way up.  

Have you ever done this classic Smokies hike?  I'd love to hear about your experience or your favorite trail in the park!  Leave me a comment below or find me over on Facebook or Twitter to get the conversation started!

Rich Mountain and Ace Gap - 12-23

Since the rain finally stopped this week, I decided to hit the trails yet again to try and get in as many miles as I could before my foot surgery next month.  We decided to hike up and down the 2.4-mile section of Rich Mountain Trail and then hike from Ace Gap to Beard Cane and back, close to 16 miles for the day.  

Our morning began by driving up OId Cades Cove road, a windy and narrow paved road that switches back up and over the mountain to the one-way Rich Mountain Road and the trailhead.  It was foggy and overcast this morning, so it added a bit of ambience to the hike.  Starting by going up Rich Mountain first, we had a nearly 1500-foot climb ahead of us.  The climb was never hard, however, and we reached the top in less than an hour which really surprised us.  The water was raging just before campsite 5, which looked like a beautiful place with lots of mountain mist.  On the way back down we met two older women who were hiking up the trail and wished them well for their hike.  As it was a foggy morning, there were no views to be had.  We got back down to the parking lot at 10:15 and took a lunch break.  

Our hike on Ace Gap began shortly after our break, where we added our extra weight back to our packs and started up the trail.  Ace Gap skirts the park boundary line, so encroachment is everywhere.  In several places, the trail has been rerouted down down down the hill and back up up up the hill to avoid coming to close to the private property and the vacation homes that line the boundary.  Most of the homes have cut down trees as well to get better “Smoky Mountain Views,” which really sucks.  We nicknamed the trail the Sundquist Bypass, as former Governor Sundquist has built an incredibly large home nearly on top of the trail.  There are two former campsites on this trail, 4 and 7, which have both been closed due to “water issues.”  However, today the water was abundant and we had many stream crossings.  We also had a view at one point to the tornado damage over on Pine Mountain on Rabbit Creek Trail.  It was a clear-cut path of destruction.  

We finally get down to Beard Cane Trail and tag out on the sign about 11:15 a.m.  Then we begin to go back up the hill and over to former campsite 7 for lunch.  It was a nice place to stop with lots of log benches for sitting.  The trail undulates, so we had a nice up and down, up and down, up and down ahead of us.  The trail seemed longer after lunch, but we pressed on to make it back to the car by 2:30.  About one mile from the trailhead, we ran in to a group of four people carrying no packs and wearing clean and expensive designer outdoor clothes.  We guessed they might have been property owners scouting how they could move the trail even further.  When we reached the parking lot we were right.  They had Townsend property and gated community stickers all over the front windshield of the car. 

This hike didn’t afford many views and the weather wasn’t great.  All in all, a day in the woods is better than a day at work and good company in the woods can make all the difference in a great hike and a mediocre one.  This hike was fun regardless :)